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Saturday,
May 19, 7:00 P.M.
Members $85, guests $110
A Feng Shui master was called in to ensure that the interior of
TenPenhthe new Asian-inspired
restaurant opened by the team that brought Washington the popular
DC Coasthad the proper balance
of yin and yang to allow for good energy flow. The cooking team
spent several weeks travelling through the Far East tasting local
delicacies, searching for exotic treasures to adorn the dining room,
and picking up culinary inspiration that would inform the restaurants
menu.
The result is a gorgeous dining room overflowing with treasures
from the trip. There is a 17th-century Burmese statue of two men
carrying a gong. Diners sit on elegant teak chairs that were custom
made in Hong Kong or on banquets upholstered in green and gold Thai
silk. The room is divided by glass panels that have been painted
with the same pattern that graces a temple in Bangkok. Teak floor
lamps with silk shades purchased in Ho Chi Minh City cast a warm
glow over the lounge. Guests eat with utensils made of hammered
bronze, the knives shaped like traditional Thai swords.
The menu is as carefully thought out and brilliantly executed as
the decor. Jeff Tunks, the executive
chef and owner, made a name for himself in Washington with the opening
of DC Coast in 1998. The American seafood restaurant was named one
of the top new restaurants of the year by just about everyoneEsquire,
Bon Appétit, Food & Wine, and the Washingtonian.
At DC Coast, Tunks has "mastered the skill of melding big American
flavors with bright ideas from the Pacific," John
Mariani wrote in Diversion magazine. At TenPenh,
he wanted to take his Asian inspiration one step further. Tunks
enlisted the talented team of Cliff Wharton
and David Guas to man the kitchen and
pastry kitchen respectively, and the result is a wonderful amalgam
of Asian dishes like sweet coconut-chicken soup ("irresistible,"
according to Brett Anderson of Washington
City Paper) and a trio of sorbetscoconut with lemongrass,
mango with fresh ginger, and pale green apple ("smiles of pleasure
follow the first tastes," Tom Sietsema
wrote in The Washington Post.)
Wharton set out to be a rock star, but DC denizens are counting
their lucky stars that he turned his sights toward the kitchen instead.
After working at several restaurants in his hometown of Kansas City,
Missouri, Wharton left home for San Diego, where he got a job at
the Loews Coronado Bay hotel.
Tunks was the executive chef at the time. The two proved such a
good team that Wharton accompanied Tunks as sous-chef when the latter
went to New Orleans to take over the stoves at the famed Windsor
Court hotel. It was there they got a taste of what Guas
could do in the pastry kitchen. Guas, a New Orleans native had grown
up cooking and eating with his family, whose eclectic culinary traditions
(one side of his family came from Cuba, the other from New Orleans)
are evident in his desserts. At the Windsor Court, Tunks grew to
admire Guass ability to "transform old-fashioned desserts
into contemporary creations." Ultimately, Guas left New Orleans
in the company of Tunks and Wharton to open DC Coast, and now, TenPenh.
"Theres no corner of the city that pulses with as much
creative energy as TenPenh," Sietsema wrote. Come taste the
excitement.
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