Monday, October 15, 7:00 P.M.
Members $95, guests $120
ARCADIA AND LOBSTER CLUB, ALAS, are
gone, but dejected Upper East Siders dont have to travel far
for a taste of the good ol days. Last February, chef/owner
Anne Rosenzweig and her former chef de cuisine at Lobster Club,
Charleen Badman, teamed up at Inside, a comfortable eatery in Greenwich
Village, where, as Elaine Louie wrote in Avenue Magazine, "Badman
turns out addictive dishes."
Badman, an Arizona native, began cooking at 16. She prepped and
chopped at a local Italian restaurant, then moved on to the popular
Cafe Terra Cotta, where she rose up the ranks from garde-manger
to chef de cuisine. Hungry for knowledge, she traveled to L.A. on
a week off and spent time in the kitchen of the renowned Campanile.
On January 1, 1996, Badman, then 24, packed up two bags and headed
east. Shed read about Rosenzweig and Lobster Club and was
intrigued. In the middle of New Yorks worst blizzard in years,
Badman showed up at the door. No openings, they told her. But Badman
hadnt come this far to be discouraged, and a few days later,
Lobster Club hired her as a line cook. By the time she left, about
six years later, she was chef de cuisine and had logged stages at
the Michelin-starred Dal Pescatore in Italy and Chez Panisse. At
Inside, Badman works in a minimalist vein. She changes the seasonal,
Greenmarket-driven menu weekly, composing dishes of three to four
pristine items that she combines "in a way that lets them assert
their most vibrant qualities," Emily Nunn wrote in The New
Yorker. Inside, Nunn continued, is the "ideal neighborhood
A former anthropologist and ethnomusicologist, Rosenzweig developed
an interest in "peasant" food while doing fieldwork in
Africa and Nepal. Back home, she made a name for herself at Vanessa,
and in 1985 opened Arcadia. Ten years later, the place remained
as good as ever, earning a glowing three-star review in The New
York Times. In 1987, Rosenzweig was instrumental in the rejuvenation
of the landmark 21 Club, and in the mid-90s, she
opened Lobster Club, "an uptown bastion of haute comfort food,"
as Robin Raisfeld described it in New York. These days, Rosenzweig
has proved herself a generous culinary mentor. She has provided
support, emotional and material, to a number of her former chefs,
including Badman, who now run their own restaurants. "Anne
and I work together really well," the grateful Badman says.
"She helped me look for spaces. We collaborate on menus. She
taught me a lot about the business. She definitely bails me out
quite a bit."
This month, get an Inside look.