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Friday,
October 19, 12:00 noon
Members $55, guests $65
HERE AT THE JAMES BEARD Foundation, our idea of romance includes
a small trattoria, a leisurely afternoon, and a spread with generous
antipasti misti, seasonal fruits and vegetables, simple pastas,
and hearty meats. This month, chef Donato Deserio of Manhattans
Viareggio, will be bringing us romance, Italian-style, one of lifes
more delicious simple pleasures.
At his recently opened Viareggio, named after a celebrated town
in Tuscany, Deserios cooking has quickly become known as "a
breath of fresh air," as Zagat wrote in 2001. "At first
glance," New York magazine wrote, "There is nothing to
distinguish this dining room from countless others. But the kitchens
another story. Deserios deft touch with superbly al dente
pastas like creamless rigatoni alla vodka reinvigorates old standards."
The magazine continued, "entrees like a subtle Parmigiano-Reggiano-crusted
chicken breast in white-wine sauce, and Deserios signature
cognac-flamed lobster, taste almost new." On WCBS, Bob Lape
called Deserio "one of our more gifted and fast-moving chefs,"
praising his "interesting twists on classics." Lape loved
the "salad of fresh greens with gorgonzola cheese and olives
and chef Donatos way with anything from the sea."
Donato Deserio, a native of Mola bi Bari, Italy, trained and worked
at restaurants in Italy before coming to the United States. He cooked
at top kitchens in New York, including Il Cortile, Maria Elena,
and Sign of the Dove, before opening Viareggio, which he runs with
his son, manager Giuseppe Deserio.
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