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First
Friday Luncheons are open to Professional and Fellow members only;
the menus appear in Previews.
Friday,
November 2, 12:00 noon
Members $55, guests $65
At
the tail end of an era of near-unrestrained excess, Mark
Spangenthals
cooking strikes a particularly soothing note of New York cool: as
William Grimes concluded in his New
York Times review of The Dining Room,
Spangenthals "relaxed American style" is "stylish
without strain." Its perfectly conceived, perfectly balanced,
perfectly sophisticated food: pan-roasted quail wrapped in tasso
ham with cheddar-baked grits, rack of lamb with corn pudding. As
Grimes noted, "The Dining Room proves that comfort does not
have to be boring."
A
native of Long Island, Spangenthal has been honing his culinary
New York state of mind since he graduated from the CIA in 1984.
He began his pro career at the Acute Café
with Jonathan Eismann, then worked
his way up to sous-chef at Alfred Portales
Gotham Bar and Grill. In 1990, he signed on as opening
sous-chef to Tom Valenti at Alison
on Dominick. Three years later, he landed a sous-chef
gig at Rick Laakkonens late,
long-lamented three-star Luxe. In 1996,
Spangenthal became opening chef for The Screening
Room, the much-loved restaurant-cum-cinema in food-and-movie-mad
Tribeca. And in August of last year, the owners of The Screening
Room launched The Dining Room in the former Upper East Side home
of Trois Jean.
In
his new venture, Spangenthals cuisine is the featured attraction,
and as Hal Rubenstein wrote in a glowing
New York review, "he is definitely ready for his close-up."
The close of a meal at The Dining Room, Rubenstein concluded, is
"like ending dinner in heaven."
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