November 2, 6:30 P.M.*
Members $65, guests $75
note special time. There is no reception.
Tasting starts promptly.
as every foodie worth her salt knows, can be a tough
thing to pull off these daysat least for lesser
culinary lights: as Salma Abdelnour
of Time Out New York wrote, "When you serve
a pan-global menu, youre asking for trouble."
But Abdelnour makes an exception in the case of Gavin
Citron, top toque at Aleutia
on Park Avenue South. Citron, she notes, is one of those
"chefs who mount a strong argument for the open-door
policy." The restaurants name refers to the
chain of islands that hopscotch across the Bering Strait,
linking farthest east with tip o the west, and
Citrons menu makes the leap in high style. In
his stunning yearling restaurant, he "manages to
be inventively international without looking foolish,"
William Grimes wrote in
The New York Times. Grimes loved Citrons
"eye-catching appetizers," dressed up with
"glamorous" touches (check out the "intriguing"
semolina and sake dumplings in truffled mushroom broth).
New Yorks Hal Rubenstein
begged foodies to come feast on Citrons "lovely,
sophisticated dishes" before the Park Avenue South
barflies got their hooks in the place. In short order,
the bi-level Aleutia became one of the citys most
satisfying culinary surprises.
a surprise thats been a long time in the making.
Citron, a former printmaker who was born and raised
on the Upper West Side, brings a serious résumé
to match his perfect culinary pitch and his artists
eye: hes worked the stoves in some of the citys
top eateries, honing his classical skills and immersing
himself in cutting-edge cuisine. A graduate of the New
York Restaurant School, Citron turned a stage at Petrossian
into a yearlong stay in the pastry kitchen. He worked
his way up from line cook to saucier in Rick
Laakkonens kitchens at Luxe,
then moved on to Jean-Georges Vongerichtens
much-celebrated JoJo. After
a stint at Carucci in Wilmington,
Delaware, where he earned three and a half stars from
the Delaware News Journal, he headed back to
Gotham. He ran the kitchens at Onieals
Grand Street, consulted at Bar
Anise, and headed up the teams at Aja
and Celadon. Last year,
he signed on as opening chef at Aleutia. In his latest
venture, hes serving "fresh and contemporary"
fare, as Grimes put itfood so good its tempting
culinarians to brave the teeming Union Square bar scene
downstairs. This month, Citron brings his East-meets-West
cooking to our Beard House kitchens. Fearful of the
"Cosmo-scented hordes," as Rubenstein put
it? We offer a highly civilized, Cosmo-free introduction
to Citrons beautiful food.