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Tuesday, February
26, 7:00 P.M.
Members $95, guests $120
What's better
than a pairing of wine and food? How about the pairing of two talented
restaurateur brothers with a husband-and-wife team from one of California's
premier wineries? Call it pairs squared, if you like, but the combination
of Craig and Keith Schauffel from Pairs Napa Valley with John and
Janet Trefethen of Trefethen Vineyards is certain to be exponentially
delicious.
Pairs Napa Valley
is "a class act of imagination and comfort," Sasha Paulsen
wrote in the Napa Valley Register, describing the California-and-Asian-inspired
restaurant as "Zen romantic." Paulsen called the roasted
mussels with tomato-coconut broth and cilantro-lime fettuccini "a
definite winner" and praised the "signature (and terrific)
lemon calamari with citrus aïoli." Appellation's Erika
Lenkert loved the "delicious" mussels as well as the "bright,
delicate, and unswervingly Asian" sea bass with daikon-mushroom
sauce and nori. "Very sophisticated. Very one-world,"
was how Sacramento Press Democrat critic Jeff Cox described
Pairs, giving the food four and a half out of five stars.
Brothers Craig
and Keith Schauffel both began their careers at the CIA, Craig graduating
with an associate's degree in culinary studies and Keith taking
a degree in pastry. After that their paths diverged. Craig worked
for Seppi Renggli at the Four Seasons, and was on the reopening
team for the '21' Club under Alain Sailhac and Anne Rosenzweig.
He moved west to work as chef of Cain Cellars in the Napa Valley,
and in 1991, opened the catering company Pairs: Eloquence in Food
and Wine, which evolved, with help from brother Keith, into the
Pairs Parkside Café in St. Helena, and finally into Pairs
Napa Valley. The name refers not only to the joint effort of the
two brothers but also to the menu's suggested pairings of wine varietals
or sake for every course. Although he now runs the front of the
house, Keith worked for a long time in the pastry kitchen, after
attending écoles de pâtisserie in Lucerne and
Cordes, France. He returned to New York and positions at Manhattan's
Plaza Hotel, La Brasserie, and René Pujol. Along with his
restaurant duties, Keith now teaches at CIA (Greystone) and the
Napa Valley Cooking School.
Trefethen Vineyards,
the largest contiguous winery under a single ownership in California,
has been owned by the Trefethen family since 1968, when John Trefethen's
parents, Eugene and Katie Trefethen, bought the land of the former
Eshcol ranch in the southern Napa Valley. Since then, the winery
has been taken over with much success by John and Janet Trefethen.
John, a graduate of the Stanford Business School, met Janet, a former
Miss California Rodeo, while she was working at the Winegrower Foundation.
Among the medals and accolades in the Trefethen war chest: their
1998 Chardonnay won Best in the World at the World Wine Olympics;
the 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon received the gold medal at the Tasters
Guild International Wine Competition, and the 1994 won Double Gold
Medal and Best of Class, Napa Appellation at the California State
Fair Wine Competition. Of the dry Riesling, Los Angeles Times
critic Dan Berger wrote, "If you miss this wine, you'll miss
one of the treats of the western wine world."
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