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Burrata
[burr-AH-tah]
WHAT? Cream cheese. On the outside,
burrata appears to be fresh mozzarella. But the inside holds
a surprisean unctuous mix of cream and cheese curds.
Burrata originated in Apulia and Basilicata in southern Italy
and is one of several pasta filata cheeses. These cheesesmozzarella,
provolone, and cacicovallo are examplesbegin with the
formation of curd. The curd is heated in hot water so that
it becomes melted and smooth, and then stretched, which forms
the characteristically smooth surface. Burrata can also be
filled with butter or a butter-and-sugar paste, hence its
name. Another variation is Burrata di Andria, which is wrapped
in the leaves of the aromatic asphodel plant, a member of
the lily family.
WHEN?
May 7,
Mark
Peel and Nancy Silverton, Campanile
Croquettes
WHAT?
Dinner, recycled. Croquettes, originally a French term, were
introduced into English cookery in the 18th century, Alan
Davidson writes in his Oxford Dictionary of Food. The
name comes from the French croquant, which means crunchy
or crisp. Although the contents vary widely, croquettes are
consistently small rounded shapes, ranging in size from a
walnut to an egg, which are coated in egg and breadcrumbs
and then fried, to a golden brown. Larousse writes
that the filling of croquettes is a mixture of vegetables
or cooked meats, usually leftover from another use, chopped
fine and mixed with béchamel or brown sauce. Some of
the most popular are chicken, ham, and salmon. Although in
the United States, croquettes are associated, disparagingly,
with '50s ladies' luncheons, their image is better elsewhere.
Croquetas are eaten as sandwich fillings in Latin America
and arancini, a form of Italian crocchetta,
are beloved by Italian children.
WHEN? May
23,
Tom Harkins and May
31, Jeffrey Tenner Lindbergh's
Crossing,
Sekt
WHAT? 1. a body of persons adhering
to a particular religious faith; denomination. 2. a group
regarded
No, no, no! Not that kind of sect. Sekt. It's
German for sparkling wine, or rather a particular type of
sparkling wine made in Germany. The name is attributed to
a 19th-century Shakespearean actor in Berlin named Ludwig
Devrient, who used the phrase "cup of sack" (a strong
white wine imported from Spain by the English) as a joke when
asking for his favorite drink, Champagne. By law, the best
sekts are actually known in Germany as Deutscher Sekt (made
from 100 percent German grapes) or Deutscher Sekt bA (made
from grapes grown in one of 11 specific regions). Although
the mix of grapes varies, many of the best are made exclusively
from Riesling. According to Hugh Johnson, the quality ranges
from insipid to inspired, but the flowery and fruity flavors
have nothing in common with Champagne except the bubbles.
WHEN? May
3, Odessa
Piper, L'Etoile
Sous-Vide
[soo-veed]
WHAT?
Haute boil-in-bag cooking. Conceptually the opposite
of pressure cooking, sous-vide is a technique whereby foods
are vacuum sealed in plastic bags and cooked in a temperature-controlled
water bath. It was developed by Georges Pralus in 1974, while
he was working at Troisgros. Sous-vide spread throughout the
Michelin three-star set, but it didn't make a large impact
in the United States until now, when it seems to be filling
a vacuum. Because most sous-vide dishes are prepared individually,
it aids in portion control and increases efficiency on the
hot line. Cooking in a sealed environment also minimizes product
shrinkage. And rather than evaporating into the air, the juices
and flavors remain trapped inside the bag. The sous-vide technique
also proves helpful as chefs increasingly travel to cook guest
dinners; they can literally just boil in the bag, slit it
open, and serve.
WHEN? May
15,
Sandro Gamba, NoMI
at the Park Hyatt
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