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Tuesday, August
6, 7:00 P.M.
Members $95, guests $120
Joe's Restaurant.
A name as ho-hum as this doesnt usually send gastronomic expectations
soaring or set mouths watering. It seems more appropriate for that
fallback restaurant you schlep to when every other place is booked.
That is, unless chef Joe Miller is wearing the toque.
For 11 years,
Miller, a man as unassuming as his name suggests, has continued
to dazzle the particular palates of Angelenos. Hes accomplished
this by serving up his trademark soulful and heartfelt
California-French fare, as S. Irene Virbila described it in the
Los Angeles Times Magazine. Since opening, Joes Restaurant
has been on just about everyones best list, including
Food & Wine, Gourmet, and the Los Angeles Times
Magazine. But perhaps the biggest testament to Millers
cooking is that other chefs
congregate here just to roll
up their sleeves and eat some good food, as the Wine Spectators
Harvey Steiman wrote in his own Best of L.A. list.
Cooking alongside
Miller once again will be Dan Barber, co-chef of Blue Hill, who
worked at Joes Restaurant some ten years ago. Like Miller,
Barber is a fan of fresh, seasonal food. Or as Gourmets
Jonathan Gold put it, Here, the ingredients taste of themselves,
exposed as if on a stage. But make no mistake; there are startling
jolts of flavor lurking in Barbers simplicity. As William
Grimes of The New York Times wrote, Blue Hill lulls
you into expecting the usual. And then it pounces.
Miller began
his training at the CIA. After graduating, he headed for Chicago,
where he took up residence at Le Perroquet. Later he accepted an
apprenticeship in France, studying under Michel Guérard at
Eugénie-les-Bains. Back in America, he did tours of duty
at The Brentwood Bar & Grill, LOrangerie, Patina, and
Cafe Katsu. In 1993, he opened his eponymous restaurant.
Barbers
résumé is equally impressive. In Paris he cooked at
Michel Rostang and Apicius, and in the States at Bouley and Chez
Panisse. In 2000, he opened Blue Hill, where he has found his thrill
ever since.
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