| Wednesday, May 7, 7:00 p.m.
Members $125, guests $150
A first-generation Chinese-American, Tsai
grew up cooking at his mother’s side, first in their home,
and later at the restaurant she opened in Dayton, Ohio. But Tsai
did a thing or two before becoming a professional chef himself:
he went to Yale, earned a degree in mechanical engineering, met
his future wife, ranked as the university’s number one squash
player, and spent a summer in France. If he’d stopped there,
Boston would have missed out on one of its greatest chefs.
It was during that fateful summer in France
that Tsai took some courses at Le Cordon Bleu and worked at a bakery.
He returned to New Haven to graduate, then, in less time than it
takes to say “steak-frites,” he’d packed up and
moved back to Paris. This time, he found work at Fauchon and at
the stylish Natacha bistro. Later, he went even farther afield,
training with a sushi master in Osaka, Japan. When Tsai finally
returned to the United States, he sought formal training in the
non-culinary side of the industry. He got a master’s degree
in hotel administration at Cornell University. After graduation,
he joined Ken Hom’s team at Silks in San Francisco, a restaurant
celebrated for its East-West cuisine. Tsai left Silks to become
the executive chef of the Ginger Club in Palo Alto. Then he headed
south to Santa Fe and took charge the kitchen of Santacafe, which
quickly became Zagat’s top-rated restaurant in the
city.
In 1998, Tsai and his wife Polly moved back
east, to open Blue Ginger in a suburb of Boston. A few months after
it opened, Boston magazine included the restaurant in its
Best of Boston issue, and stated that Tsai’s food was “done
with intelligence, restraint, and style.” The Boston Globe
gave Blue Ginger three stars, and John Mariani named Tsai Esquire’s
chef of the year. “Ming Tsai puts to rest the notion that
cross-cultural cooking is merely faddish or contrived,” Mariani
wrote. “His is food that lingers long in the memory and promises
to become an indelible part of American gastronomy.”
That same year, Tsai’s TV show, East
Meets West, debuted on the Food Network. “The foremost
interpreter of East-West cuisine in America today,” as Mariani
called Tsai, has recently beefed up his résumé even
more—he’s added a second TV show, a cookbook, and a
2002 American Express Best Chef: Northeast Award. Tsai will be joined
at the Beard House by sous-chefs Jonathan Taylor, Terrence Maul,
Isaac Bancaco, and pastry chef Marina Brancely.
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