| Monday, June 9, 7:00 p.m.
Members $85, guests $110
Daniel Orr has cooked in some pretty spectacular
places, among them two Michelin three-star restaurants and La Grenouille,
New York’s elegant temple of refined French cuisine. Still,
when it comes to spectacular, nothing can match his current professional
home—Guastavino’s. With its glorious setting directly
under New York’s Queensboro Bridge (the bridge’s tiled
underside forms the restaurant’s ceiling), Guastavino’s
has been compared to castles and cathedrals, and Orr, according
to Wine Spectator, “has created a menu worthy of the
space.”
But while his menus are as sophisticated as
can be, Orr himself is a small-town guy who proudly notes on his
résumé that he was an Eagle Scout. He grew up in Indiana
in a household that made its own wine, soap, and vinegar, and grew
all manner of fruits. Orr left home to attend Johnson & Wales
University, then crossed the ocean for what he later described as
“culinary finishing school.” He cooked for two years
across France and Belgium; Michelin three-stars L’Espérance
in Saint-Père-sous-Vézelay and Restaurant Bruneau
in Brussels were among the kitchens he called home. Back in the
states, Orr worked his way up from saucier to executive chef
at La Grenouille, and somehow managed to find time to write a cookbook,
Daniel Orr Real Food: Smart and Simple Meals and Menus for Entertaining
(Rizzoli).
But in 2000, Sir Terence Conran’s grand
vision of an enormous restaurant under the bridge captivated Orr,
and he signed on to run its kitchen. Orr oversees the eclectic menu
in the casual Guastavino’s on the first floor (think rotisserie
spiced chicken, lentil bisque, and matzo ball soup), as well as
the more refined menu in the more formal Club Guastavino’s
on the second floor (lemon and brown butter–sauced calves’
brains, or daurade roasted in a salt crust).
The year the two-in-one restaurant opened,
it leapt onto Esquire’s Definitive List of the Best
New Restaurants in America. Describing the first floor, John Mariani
wrote, “The place is alive with the sound of fashionably draped
people enjoying themselves immensely gobbling up the luscious international
soul food that wreaks delicious havoc on every diet.”
In his Travel, Restaurant, Entertainment
& Wine Report, J. Walman praised Orr’s style as “unaffected,
sometimes daring, always classic, contemporary and compelling.”
Put that together with the stunning architecture, and Guastavino’s
offers, he said, “one of the most enchanting dining experiences
in New York.”
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