| Wednesday, September 17, 7:00
pm
Members $100, guests $125
In the 19th century, when the Hamptons were
still potato country, New York’s first families used to escape
from the bustle of city life to their Berkshire “cottages”
(read: grandiose mansions) in the undulating hills of western Massachusetts.
Edith Wharton summered there, and so did George Westinghouse, the
Vanderbilts, the Morgans, and many more. The area was so crowded
with millionaires, in fact, that it became known as the “Inland
Newport.”
Nowadays, the Berkshires are no less popular
with New Yorkers, who, between skiing, hiking, and concertgoing,
have their choice of restaurants offering sophisticated, delicious
food. This month, we’ve lured a chef from what may be the
region’s best and loveliest dining rooms, J. Bryce Whittlesey
from Wheatleigh in the Wheatleigh hotel, to give us a taste of Berkshires
cuisine.
How best to convey Wheatleigh’s near-fabled
status among Berkshire hideaways? Citysearch Boston came
close when it described the sprawling Italianate villa as “Where
God stayed while creating the Berkshires.” The grounds, by
the way, were designed by Frederick Law Olmsted. The restaurant
has a good name of long standing, with DiRoNA, AAA, and Wine
Spectator awards to prove it. And since taking over the stoves
in late 2002, chef Whittlesey has wasted no time putting his own
stamp on the esteemed restaurant. Kate Sekules called him the hotel’s
“new star” in her roundup of America’s 50 Best
Hotel Restaurants for Food & Wine; New York magazine’s
Tara Mandy pronounced his food “superb”; and Andrew
Harper’s Hideaway Report described the cuisine as “brilliant.”
Born and raised in Latin America, Whittlesey
honed his French-inflected style in top kitchens on both sides of
the Atlantic: post-CIA, he did time at Nantucket’s Chanticleer
and at Boston’s Espalier under six-time Beard Award nominee
Frank McClelland. He then spent five years with a battery of Michelin-starred
chefs across France, Michel Rostang among them. Whittlesey’s
menu at Wheatleigh applies rigorous French technique to pedigreed
American ingredients like Broken Arrow Ranch venison or Taylor Bay
scallops to delicious effect.
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