| Tuesday, October 7, 7:00 pm
Members $100, guests $125
Credit Esca for setting sushi-loving Manhattanites
straight—the Japanese do not have a monopoly on the expert
preparation or innovative presentation of raw fish. Esca
means “bait” in Italian, and chef David Pasternack has
been reeling ’em in, hook, line, and sinker, with his astounding
crudo (“raw”) and equally enticing cooked creations.
Gourmet editor-in-chief Ruth Reichl told Sylvia Carter of
Newsday, “I think it’s the freshest fish you
can get in New York right now…[Pasternack] wins your trust.”
In his New York Times review, William Grimes concurred: “The
crudo appetizers at Esca are the freshest, most exciting thing to
happen to Italian food in recent memory…Pasternack works thrilling
variations on a very simple theme.”
After their runaway successes at Babbo and
Lupa, chef Mario Batali and his wine-and-service-specialist partner,
Joseph Bastianich, brought Pasternack on board to open Esca. But
in a departure from the standard high-profile-chef-and-restaurateur-get-all-the-press-while-someone-else-toils-away-in-the-kitchen
formula, Pasternack is getting the credit he deserves. That’s
because, as Batali explained to Carter, Pasternack is a “master
fisherman. He knows everything about the sea. He grew up in it.”
Dave Samuels, owner of Blue Ribbon Fish Company at the Fulton Fish
Market, agreed that “[he] knows more about fish than any chef
you’ll ever meet.”
It is no surprise, then, that Pasternack’s
first job behind the stove was at The Jolly Fisherman, a happy seafoodery
in Roslyn, New York. Next, he helped open Provence in New York City,
then, David Bouley’s eponymous TriBeCa restaurant, and Terrance
Brennan’s groundbreaking Flatiron restaurants Prix Fixe and
Steak Frites. Following a stint at Privé, Pasternack signed
on as Brennan’s chef de cuisine at Picholine. Six and a half
years later, he opened Esca with Batali and Bastianich. A postcard
advertising Viva Esca—translation: “live bait”—hangs
over his workstation in the kitchen. But we prefer a slightly different
read: Viva Esca!—long live that exceptional Italian
fish restaurant in Manhattan’s Theater District! |