| Tuesday, November 18, 7:00
p.m.
Members $125, guests $150
Whatever you do, don’t drive on I-95
on November 18. Oh, and on second thought, don’t make reservations
for dinner in Washington, D.C., on the 18th, either. The reason
behind both warnings is that all, and we mean all (okay, okay...14...but
that’s a lot) of the city’s best chefs are coming to
the Beard House to cook as part of this DC All-Stars & Friends
dinner. Thank Roberto Donna for having the inspiration (and the
energy) to pull it off. And thank heavens you just have to take
a subway to get there!
Donna’s one of those chefs who could
have a DC All-Stars dinner by himself, considering he runs some
seven restaurants in the Capitol City area. But the jewel in this
James Beard Foundation Award-winner’s crown is Galileo, an
Italian restaurant John Mariani called “one of the best in
the country” in a recent Wine Spectator roundup. Donna
is a regular in the Beard House kitchen, where he’s usually
beaming with pride for his friends and fellow chefs, aspiring young
talent, and the cuisine of his native Piemonte. This may be why
so many people are joining him to cook this dinner. Who are we to
argue?
Spanish-born and -trained chef José
Andrés is a familiar face around here, too. The quality and
consistency at his three stellar D.C. restaurants, Café Atlántico,
Jaleo, and Zaytinya, are the reasons he won a James Beard Award
last year for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic. Kirk Avondoglio’s Perona
Farms isn’t in D.C., but ever since he began hanging out,
hunting, and smoking salmon with the late Jean-Louis Palladin and
his buddies, he’s been an honorary member of the Capitol Hill
crowd. Jeffrey Buben bloomed onto the scene at the sweet Vidalia,
and upped the ante with Bistro Bis, never compromising what Robert
Shoffner of Washingtonian considered places so impressive
“you can take visitors to show them just how good American
cooking has become.”
When in 1926 Calvin Coolidge cut the ribbon
on the hotel that’s now the St. Regis, you can bet the food
served wasn’t as good as Didier Derouet’s modern take
on French cuisine that’s on the menu today. Despite having
the same first names, Enzo Fargione and Enzo Fabbraro aren’t
related!! But the impressive quality of the food served at all of
their Italian restaurants (Fargione’s are Barolo and Il Radicchio;
Febbraro’s is Filomena) is of similarly outstanding quality.
Fargione “goes the extra step,” wrote Phyllis Richman
in the Washington Post, and Fabbraro’s right alongside
him. With a name like Equinox, it’s no surprise that the menu
at Todd Gray’s restaurant changes with the seasons, and even
less of a surprise that this talented chef has been nominated several
times for Beard Awards for his contemporary American cooking.
British-born chef Robert Irvine took a chance
by joining Sea Cadets when he was a teenager, but that’s where
he realized he loved to cook. Today, as chef of Atlantic City’s
Caesars Palace, his gamble’s paid off. At Tosca, Cesare Lanfranconi
prepares a personal style of Italian cuisine that Washington
Post critic Tom Sietsema described as “superb.”
Nagoya-born chef/restaurateur Kaz Okochi is not only an expert on
traditional sushi, after having apprenticed for five years at the
famed Sushi-Gen in Osaka, but also on the elaborate style of cuisine
called “kaiseki.”
It wasn’t enough for Phyllis Richman
to say that “nowhere else in this country have I had such
authentic Tuscan food,” when she was writing about Francesco
Ricchi’s table (his restaurants are Cesco and Etrusco). She
added, “In fact, only in a handful of Florence’s restaurants
is such traditional food available.” Need we say more? Beard
Award-winner Michel Richard was described in Saveur magazine
as one of the chefs “most passionately in love with his cooking.”
We’ve been passionately in love with his cooking since we
first tasted at Citrus in Los Angeles, and everywhere else this
talented Frenchman’s been in the kitchen. Since 1998 Jeff
Tunks has been attracting a crowd of discerning food-lovers to DC
Coast for his take on modern American cooking. For an Asian twist,
they can visit his Pacific-inspired Ten Penh. With 13 other chefs
in Beard’s small kitchen, it might take a shoe horn to get
Robert Weidmaier of Marcel’s, in too. The German-born chef
of Belgian descent opened Marcel’s, a Belgian restaurant,
in 1999, and like a fine lambique in a cold glass, the raves have
poured in.
And if that weren’t enough, the battalion
of chefs will be joined by Mark Furstenberg of Breadline, Doug Anderson
of The Four Seasons Hotel, Washington, D.C., and Jim Swenson of
the National Press Club.
It’s a busload of chefs who will no doubt
be preparing a truck load of wonderful. There’s no extra charge
for the camaraderie and fun. |