| Wednesday, December 17, 7:00
pm
Members $90, guests $115
Most of us think of Nantucket in connection
with the summer. If we are thinking about islands at Christmas time
at all, they’re probably tropical. In actual fact, Christmas
is a very special time to be on Nantucket. Not only do the islanders
go all-out to make their home cozy and inviting with special Christmas
events all through December, but nature, too, conspires to make
Nantucket an appealing place: the birdwatching is world-renowned;
seal sightings are an everyday event; and the storms are spectacular.
Best of all, Christmas in Nantucket offers something that summer
never can: solitude, a tranquil interlude for contemplation and
quiet pleasures.
American Seasons, “perennially at the
top of every ‘not to be missed’ list,” according
to Boston magazine, uses that interlude to recharge. The
restaurant is closed for the winter months, giving chef Michael
LaScola a chance to look in on other kitchens, experiment with new
dishes, and travel. This year, he’s also taking his show on
the road with a Beard House visit.
A Massachusetts native, LaScola credits his
Italian grandmother with sparking his interest in cooking. By high
school, he had enrolled in a cooking program and was working in
local restaurants. At 16, he got a job at American Seasons, a Nantucket
favorite specializing in regional American cooking. By the time
he’d graduated from the CIA, Americans Seasons had hired him
on as sous-chef. Since then, LaScola has spent the sum total of
one season away from American Seasons, and that was to help the
then-owners open a second restaurant, Moona. Over the years, he’s
worked his way up the ladder to chef. And these days, you’ll
find his wife Orla running the front of the house.
It’s an invincible team. After spending
a few days in wintertime Nantucket, Bon Appétit writer
Nao Hauser called American Seasons the “‘bit of a dream’
that I’ll hang on to,” adding, “The food seemed
to represent Nantucket perfectly; it was local and cosmopolitan,
sophisticated yet without pretense.” The New York Times
described the place as “a lovely, rather romantic restaurant,”
and Wine Spectator likes its all-American wine list enough
to have given it its Award of Excellence for the last eight years
running.
One last thing—LaScola noted on his résumé
that “American Seasons is founded on the ideas of James Beard,
serving regional American Cuisine, promoting the diversity of American
cooking, and celebrating the small and local farmers of America
through our choice of ingredients.” We haven’t yet opened
our mouths, and already LaScola has brought us Christmas cheer.
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Nantucket Bay Scallop Ceviche
on Flatbread with Lemon Marmalade, Crème
Fraîche, and Caviar
House-Smoked Squab Breast on Butter Brioche with
Prune Compote and Sun Valley Mustard
Perrier-Jouët
Brut Champagne NV
Sushi-Grade Yellowfin Tuna Kataïfi with
Lemon Pepper Aïoli and Chile Gastrique
Arrowood Pinot
Blanc 2000
Foie Gras Trio: Pistachio-Crusted Foie Gras
Truffle with Gingered Cranberry Jam, Foie Gras
Crème Brûlée, and Duck Confit
and Foie Gras Terrine with Red Onion and Quince
Compote
Terre Rouge Viognier
2001
Braised Niman Ranch Pork Cheeks with Sweet
Potato–Cashew Hash, Pineapple Relish, and
Star Anise Reduction
Blockheadia Ringnosii
Zinfandel 1999
Roasted Rack of Venison with Celeriac-Potato
Pavé, Orange-Onion Confit, Baby Leeks,
Turnips, and Chestnut Jus
Bonny Doon Le
Cigare Volant 2001
Grand Marnier Chocolate Gâteau with
White Chocolate Sorbet and Eggnog Milkshake
Steele Pacini
Ranch Port |
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