Bruno Jamais Restaurant Club
24 E. 81st St., NYC*
Monday, January 5, 7:00 pm
Members and guests, $150
*Please note special location.
Never say never. Never thought you’d
be able to pass muster at the exclusive private dining club operated
by Bruno Jamais (whose name, coincidentally, means “never”
in French), where yearly dues alone top $7,000, and Andrew Karasz
cooks nightly for a crowd of well-heeled gourmets? Never thought
you’d be able to drink all the Charles Heidsieck Champagne
you want in one evening? Think again. At least this one night, Jamais
is swinging open the doors to welcome James Beard Foundation members
and their guests for an evening of Champagne indulgence. Too close
to New Year’s Eve, you say? Well, you know the expression
about the hair of the dog that bit you. Book early.
It’s “wonderful,” pronounced
New York magazine in answer to Groucho Marx’s age-old
question, “Should I join a club that’s willing to have
me?” Robert Kanter, a Wall Street tycoon-type, was quoted
by one newspaper as saying, “This restaurant is incredible.”
Although a few chefs have rotated through the kitchen since the
club opened in 2002, Karasz has kept the exclusive clientele happily
well fed. Five years cooking in California at Auberge du Soleil
in Napa Valley and Wolfgang Puck’s Postrio in San Francisco
gave this Paris-born chef a taste of America’s freshest produce.
In New York City he worked with Rocco DiSpirito at Union Pacific
and Kerry Heffernan at Eleven Madison Park before taking the top
spot at Nicole’s in 2002.
One of the draws of Bruno’s club is an
extensive $6 million wine cellar. But this night we’re drinking
stars. Those of you who have been to our summer Champagne celebration,
Chefs & Champagne in the Hamptons, know the crisp, elegant taste
of Champagne Charles Heidsieck. Established in Reims in 1851, Champagne
Charles Heidsieck has become a leading brand of bubbly in the United
States under brand manager Christian Holthausen. It didn’t
hurt that the Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires 1990
received a score of 95 from Wine Spectator, whose tasters
noted “this bubbly exhibits a cornucopia of flavors...seamless,
rich, and long.”
Membership certainly has its privileges.