| Thursday, February 26, 7:00
pm
Members $90, guests $115
Sia Moshk is, by all accounts, an extraordinary
restaurateur. A native of southern Iran, Moshk arrived in the United
States in the late ’70s to study mechanical engineering. But
a series of entry-level jobs in various food services left Moshk
hungry for a life in the restaurant business. He earned a business
degree and forged a name for himself in restaurant management. After
21 years overseeing other people’s operations, he decided
it was high time he opened his own restaurant. With his name (literally)
riding on the venture, Moshk handpicked Scott Serpas to run his
kitchen.
A Louisiana native, Serpas left for Dallas
after culinary school to work with Kevin Rathbun at Baby Routh’s,
where he added the intricacies of Southwestern cuisine to his Bayou
background. Four years later he accepted the sous-chef position
at Atlanta’s NAVA. He was back in New Orleans, working as
chef de cuisine at Mike’s on the Avenue, when Moshk hired
him to be Sia’s executive chef.
Together, they’ve established a “cocoon
of luxury,” Christiane Lauterbach wrote in Atlanta
magazine. She praised Serpas’s “balance of complexity
and enthusiasm for excellent ingredients.” In his three-star
review, Atlanta Journal-Constitution critic John Kessler
wrote that “each rich mouthful is a small happening”;
he has continually ranked Sia’s among Atlanta’s 50 top
restaurants.
Serpas’s brand of contemporary American
cuisine is eclectic, as evidenced by a menu where Southwestern and
Asian influences play peek-a-boo in dishes like a fire-roasted beef
tenderloin with caramelized onion–portobello quesadilla and
red chile–thyme glaze, or roasted duck and cabbage crispy
roll with sambal syrup. In lesser hands than Serpas’s that
might spell fusion disaster, but at Sia’s, Lauterbach wrote,
“the journey through a large number of flavors is well worth
undertaking.” |