| Friday, March 12, 7:00 pm
Members $90, guests $115
Historians among us may remember 1913 as the year the Sixteenth
Amendment was added to the Constitution, giving us a national income
tax. But on the foodie dateline, there was a far more momentous
development: it was in 1913 that Jack Rosenstein opened Jack’s
Oyster House. Ever since, the restaurant has been a gathering place
for politicos, celebrities, and residents who appreciate its unrivaled
ambiance and service. Years ago, the eatery was taken over by Jack’s
grandson, Brad Rosenstein, who went about bringing the restaurant,
now a local landmark, into the 21st century. When you first walk
in, you may not notice the changes; in fact, much about the place
remains delightfully the same as it ever was, from the tuxedoed
waiters to the Albany street scenes that adorn the walls. But one
bite of chef Dale Miller’s food and there will be no mistaking
that this isn’t your grandfather’s Jack’s.
“What has changed—and changed for the better—is
the food,” Doug de Lisle wrote in The Record. Taking
over the kitchen at Jack’s must have been a daunting task.
How to change the menu at a 90-year-old dining institution without
alienating the regular clientele? Not only did Miller, one of only
60 Certified Master Chefs in the country, manage to please the restaurant’s
existing customers, but he attracted a whole new set of diners as
well. As William M. Dowd of the Times Union wrote in his
four-star review, “Miller has successfully walked the fine
line between maintaining what has proved successful for generations
and responding to modern tastes.”
It is not a surprise that a chef who started his own baking and
catering business at the age of 12, got his first job in a restaurant
kitchen by 15, opened his first restaurant by age 26, and now has
a fistful of honors, knows how to assure success. After graduating
with high honors from the CIA, he held executive sous-chef and chef
positions at The Raindancer, a high-volume steakhouse in Amsterdam,
New York, the Albany Marriott; and Tavern on the Square in Schenectady
before opening Stone Ends Restaurant in Albany, where he was owner
and chef. He joined Jack’s Oyster House as executive chef
and managing partner in 1997, and he cooks superlative American
food with international touches. He’s earned rave reviews.
“Miller has turned the good food of Jack’s into memorable
food,” de Lisle wrote.
We know that Miller will feel right at home at the Beard House.
After all, legendary venues are his specialty. |
| |
| |
Melted Foie Gras on Triple
Raisin Toast
Ketel One Bloody Mary Hurricane Oyster Shooters
Warm Gingered Lobster with Scallion and Sesame
Venison Pastrami on James Beard Sourdough Rye
Eggplant with Herbed Goat Cheese and Tomato Medallion
Moët & Chandon
White Star NV
Caramelized Diver
Scallop with Tartare of Ruby Grapefruit, Macédoine
of Avocado, and Roasted Peppers
King Estate Pinot
Gris 2001
Pillow of Copper River
Salmon with Smoked Seafood–Green Lentil
Stew and Pressed Yellow Tomato, Garlic, and Thyme
Broth
Jack’s Private
Label Palmer Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay 2000
Mâche with Glazed
Sweetbreads, Roasted Artichokes, and Gourmand
Vinaigrette
Jack’s Private
Label mountain view Vineyards Pinot Noir 2001
Spring Rack of Lamb Chops
with Parsley Pesto Crust, Black Pepper–Balsamic
Drizzle, Roasted New Fingerling Potatoes with
Vidalia Onion, and Spring Vegetable Hodgepodge
Jack’s Private
Label Silverado Vineyard Cabernet Reserve 2000
Life’s Childhood
Pleasures: Warm Valrhona Chocolate Cake with Marshmallow
Brûlée, Banana Ice Cream, and Strawberry
Cotton Candy
King Estate Vin
Glacé 2002 |
|
|
|
| |
| |
|