| Tuesday, August 31, 7:00 pm
Members $90, guests $115
You’ve got to believe that Jon Bonnell knew naming his restaurant
Bonnell’s Fine Texas Cuisine was going to raise a few eyebrows.
For starters, a non-Texan might wonder, what’s with the word
cuisine? If this is Texas we’re talking about, surely
he meant cookin’? And what’s so fine about bbq,
chili, and grits? Oh, but wait, that’s not what this guy is
about at all, you realize as soon as you’re handed the menu.
Bonnell tips his Stetson at Southwestern and Creole cuisines, and
the results are mighty fine, indeed.
Nancy Schaadt of Fort Worth Weekly got it immediately: “Bonnell’s
game meats are of such quality and the food is so remarkable,”
she wrote, “Bonnell has begun a new chapter in the book of
fine Texas cuisine. This is a pedigreed restaurant and a shoo-in
for Best in Show.” Her prediction was spot-on. Bonnell was
named 2002 Chef of the Year by the publication 11 months later.
Dotty Griffith of The Dallas Morning News gave the restaurant
three and a half stars and directed her readers to a few of the
standout dishes, including Bonnell’s chicken and wild mushroom
pasta as well as grilled trout with mango salsa and wild rice pilaf.
She was also taken with his creamy green chile and cheese grits,
declaring them a “don’t-miss companion to many of the
entrees” and touting them as “a perfect sponge for the
wild mushroom cabernet sauce” that came with “garnet-hued
slices of duck breast.” Her colleague June Naylor, writing
for Texas Journey and the Star-Telegram, applauded
the venison carpaccio: “Silken to the tongue, the appetizer
is served on a nest of arugula with a creamy green-peppercorn dressing
and crisp-fried capers.”
With food this tasty, small wonder that Bonnell’s was named
Best New Restaurant and Best Southwest Restaurant by Ft. Worth
Magazine and Best Restaurant by Fort Worth Weekly. Bonnell,
a native of Fort Worth, began his professional life as a science
and math teacher. After two years, he headed east and attended the
New England Culinary Institute. While a student, he apprenticed
at Mr. B’s Bistro in New Orleans’s historic French Quarter,
where he fell hard for Creole food. After graduation he made his
way back home and became a chef at Randall’s Gourmet Restaurant
and Cheesecakery. In between drafting plans for his own place, Bonnell
helped open Escargot Restaurant, and he worked as a personal chef.
In the fall of 2001, he took his place at the stove at his namesake
restaurant. |