Monday, March 7, 7:00 pm Members $90, guests $115
Randy Zweiban’s résumé might well qualify
him in a court of law as an expert on the complex marriage of food,
wine, and music. It was only after spending most of the 1980s playing
drums for obscure bands in clubs like CBGB’s that Zweiban,
who grew up in Queens, accepted the fact he would never be a rock-’n’-roll
star and devoted himself to becoming a chef. These days, from the
kitchen of Nacional 27, his pioneering Nuevo Latino restaurant
and club in Chicago, Zweiban raps out big bold flavors that accentuate
the vibrant sounds and rhythms of the Latin music on the dance
floor.
Before helping to introduce the most prominent culinary movement
of the last decade to the bosom of meat-and-potatoes Middle America,
Zweiban learned his trade from the chef he considers his mentor,
Norman Van Aken. After graduating from Peter Kump’s New York
Cooking School (now I.C.E.), Zweiban moved to Miami and hounded
Van Aken for a job, beginning a seven-year collaboration in which
Zweiban rose to chef de cuisine at Norman’s, and thoroughly
soaked up Van Aken’s New World cuisine.
In 1998, Richard Melman, head of Lettuce Entertain You, enticed
Zweiban to Chicago to renovate the Mexican-themed Hat Dance restaurant
and replace it with Nacional 27. There, Zweiban has developed an
innovative and constantly changing menu that draws upon the cuisine
of the 27 nations south of the U.S. border; the strongest influences
come from Brazil, Argentina, Puerto Rico, Cuba, and Mexico. In
1999, Chicago magazine named Nacional 27 Best New Restaurant, and
the accolades have continued to roll in.
That Zweiban could pull off such an audacious concept was no surprise. “Whenever
I do a plate,” he told Chef magazine in 2000, “I
try to make my foodstuffs indigenous to the region—a credo
I learned from Norman…In Chicago, I get the chance to cook
a lot more meat.”
This will be the third appearance at the James Beard House for
Zweiban, and his second Wine Lovers’ Dinner. We hear there
may be new ventures in store for 2005, so come out for a preview
of things to come from this exciting young chef. |
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#1 Tuna Tiradito with
Crispy Gyoza
Fluke, Orange, and Jalapeño Ceviche with
Plantain Chips
Honey- and Chile-Glazed Duck Empanaditas
Spice-Roasted Foie Gras Arepas
Champagne Nicolas
Feuillatte Premier Cru Brut NV
Nacional 27 Bacardi
Limon Mojitos
House-Smoked Tasmanian Salmon with Costa Rican
Hearts of Palm, Papaya, Olives, and Avocado
Loimer Grüner
Veltliner Langenlois 2003
Housemade Chorizo-Crusted Sea Scallops with
Braised Leeks, Roasted Garlic Crema, and Salsa
Cruda
Michel Picard
Domaine Château de Chassagne-Montrachet
En Pimont 2000
Grouper Huachinango with Tomatillo Salsa, Arroz
Verde, and Cilantro Sauce
Martinborough Vineyards Pinot Noir 2003
Smoked Pork Tenderloin Adobado with Braised
Greens and Wild Mushroom and Corn Flan
Susana Balbo Brioso Bordeaux Blend 2001
Venezuelan Estate Chocolate Pastel with Coconut
Crema, Dulce de Leche, and Strawberries
Broadbent Terrantez
Old Reserve Madeira
Bacardi Reserva Limitada Founder’s
Blend 12-Year-Old Puerto Rican Rum
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