Wednesday, March 16, 7:00 pm
Members $90, guests $115

Around the time of the Renaissance, the atelier or “studio workshop” became the dominant form of creative production in the world of art and design. Under the direction of a renowned painter or sculptor, a team of dedicated workers would realize the master’s vision. The model—or at least the spirit that the concept of an atelier evoked—spread to other creative realms: fashion, architecture, and in due time, food.

At Atelier in the Ritz-Carlton New York, Central Park hotel, chef Alain Allegretti is the master in residence. His workshop is the kitchen, where he realizes Provençal-inspired masterpieces such as pan-seared cod with chickpea purée and piquillo peppers stuffed with brandade. Like all true masters, Allegretti, a native of the south of France, studied with the top of his field. After hotel school he cooked with Michelin three-star chefs Alain Chapel (in Mionnay) and Alain Ducasse (in Monaco). His first executive chef position was at the luxurious Hotel l’Impérial Garoupe in Cap d’Antibes. That’s where Allegretti was working when ringmaster Sirio Maccioni tapped him to become the co-executive chef of Le Cirque 2000. As Le Cirque readied to move last year, Allegretti took over the top spot at the Ritz-Carlton, where he is both executive chef of the hotel and chef de cuisine of Atelier.

When Atelier opened with chef Gabriel Kreuther at the helm, critic Adam Platt of New York magazine said the restaurant was “shooting off sparks” on Central Park South. Under Allegretti, the food doesn’t so much explode as it soothes and satisfies. Perhaps that’s evidence of Allegretti’s comment that “many of the dishes that I create have my grandparents’ touch in them.” In these days of fusion this and inflected that, Allegretti has a touch we really appreciate.