Farinata [fah-ree-NAH-tah] What? Pancake, make up. If, as Waverley Root wrote in The Food of Italy, "The cooking of Liguria was tailored to fit the desires of the returned seafarer," imagine how nice it would be to come home after a difficult voyage to a wedge of warm chick-pea pancake, rich with olive oil and redolent of rosemary. That's what you'll find in seaside kiosks lining the Italian coast of the Mediterranean. Called farinata (literally, "floured"), this traditional pancake is made by stirring chick pea flour into a mixture of water and olive oil to form a loose batter, seasoning it with fresh rosemary and sea salt, and baking it in the oven or, more traditionally, over an open fire. A relative of Nice's socca, farinata is enjoyed throughout the day--for breakfast, at lunch, after school, or before dinner. Leftovers are turned into panissa (paniccia in dialect), a combination of chunks of farinata, olive oil, chopped onions, mushrooms, and grated cheese that's baked to form a crust and served piping hot. When? December 16, Dominique Filoni, Savona