Wrapping hot dogs at Washington Senators games may not sound like the most promising start to a culinary career, but since his early days near the dugout, Greggory Hill has never lost his sense of fun and games. Today, as executive chef at Gabriel, one of Washington's hottest (in both senses of the word) restaurants, Hill demonstrates his exuberance in nearly every dish. "Everything has a twist," Phyllis Richman wrote admiringly in The Washington Post Magazine, reserving particular praise for "wedges of caramelized cooked oranges, to be eaten skin and all" with monkfish. That "twist," she wrote, "is a revelation."

Hill quickly moved on from hot dogs to cooking for diplomats and assorted politicos in the kitchen of the French Embassy. In 1989 he graduated from L'Académie de Cuisine, where he returns periodically to teach. He did a stint at B&B Caterers and served as executive chef at Washington's multicultural New Heights restaurant. But Hill credits much of his culinary development to travel. He has worked with chefs around the world, researched elusive dishes, and tasted foods where they often taste best-on their home turf. Today, Hill's most apparent influences are the flavors of the so-called Hot Zones-Mexico, Latin America, Spain, India, Thailand, and the American Southwest. His generous hand with chile peppers, tropical fruits, seafood, corn, and native grains shows his special affinity for the bold flavors of Latin America. At Gabriel, Hill serves up dramatic plates heaped with salsas, beans, and garnishes. With Hill at the House, our Capital Christmas dinner is sure to be a home run.