Owings Mills is a place of elegance and ease, a secluded realm that seems aeons away from the rush of the city. In the countryside of Greenspring Valley, just northwest of Baltimore, lush rolling hills and split-rail fences line meandering country roads; stately homes stand at the end of long, imperious drives; horses graze in well-tended paddocks. At the heart of this exclusive community is the Caves Valley Golf Club, a regional institution that draws its members from the top echelons of Baltimore-area society; and at the heart of Caves Valley is a dining room that is one of the most jealously guarded secrets of local foodies. This is the domain of Ned Atwater, the gifted chef who has made Caves Valley a hidden jewel.

Atwater began his career more than two decades ago under the watchful eye of respected chef Michel Beaupin at King's Contrivance, then a formal French restaurant in Maryland. He put in time on the line in some of the area's best restaurants, and served as top toque in eateries from Minneapolis to Annapolis. Intent on mastering every aspect of cookery, Atwater studied at the University of Wisconsin's cheese-making program, at the celebrated Egg Farm Dairy in Peekskill, New York, and at the Berkshire Mountain Bakery in Housatonic, Massachusetts. His training also included a stint at Madeleine Kamman's School for American Chefs in the Napa Valley. In 1991 Atwater signed on as opening executive chef at Caves Valley. His sumptuous, beautifully eclectic fare is drawn from the best traditions of America and France, with a soup çon of inspiration from the Mediterranean and Asia. During his tenure at Caves Valley, Atwater has prepared dinner for a slew of notables, including Julia Child, Madeleine Kamman, and Presidents George Bush and Bill Clinton. This month, we'll let you in on the secret of Atwater's wonderful food.