In José Andrés'S native Spain, Three Kings' Day is cause for celebration: gifts are exchanged, special sweets are prepared, and families and friends sit down together for a glorious meal. Legend has it that on January 6, the Three Kings arrive in Spain on camelback bearing gifts for everyone. At each home they visit, a little something is left for the traveling threesome-sherry and other delicious goodies for the Kings, and even some hay for the camels. It's a delightful tradition that Andrés wants to share with all of us, and he's the perfect candidate to do so: the name of his D.C. restaurant, Jaleo [hah lay-oh], is Spanish for great fun and merrymaking. Andrés is sure to put his own scrumptious spin on our festivities.

Andrés, who was born in Asturias, Spain, attended the Restaurant and Hotel School of Barcelona. He went on to cook in several top-rated Barcelona restaurants, including the Michelin-starred El Bulli (three stars) and Neichel (two). Andrés eventually packed up for New York, where he worked as head chef at the renowned Spanish restaurant El Dorado Petit. In 1993 he moved to Washington, taking the top post at Jaleo, where his classic Spanish fare-vivid and very fresh-and the restaurant's stylish sense of fun were an overnight sensation. These days, Andrés also runs the kitchen at Jaleo's sister restaurant just down the block, Café Atlántico, where he is preparing an imaginative blend of European, Caribbean, and South American cuisines. "If Jose Andrés is cooking this exquisitely at age 29, what will he be doing by 35?" Phyllis Richman mused in the Washington Post after eating at Atlántico. "No chef in America creates Nuevo Latino or New Caribbean food with a surer hand or a finer sensibility. And he keeps getting better." This past year, Andrés was named one of Restaurant Hospitality's and Wine Spectator's Rising Stars of 1998.

Make a pilgrimage to the Beard House this Twelfth Night for a feast that is sure to be a real epiphany. Just watch out for the camels as you make your way inside.