Globe, wrote Michael Bauer in a three-star San Francisco Chronicle review, is "the type of restaurant that reminds us how lucky we are to be living in San Francisco." In this spare, sunny space, Joseph Manzare is serving up the kind of bistro food that you crave on dark nights when the fog rolls in. His cooking, like his restaurant, is at once elegantly restrained and full of rich beauty: handmade pastas with piquant sauces, a succulent T-bone for two, pork chops with a caramelized onion and green bell pepper sauce and an olive tapenade. This is simplicity with an inspired twist, and it's the reason that the Golden Gate's chef community has made Globe its home-away-from-home. As Bauer put it, "Some restaurants have such a force field of energy that the minute you enter...you know you're on to something special. Globe has that electricity."
Manzare started out in the restaurant business at age 14. By 17, he was telling people he was getting ready to open his own place. A college degree in business intervened, but soon he was back in the kitchen, apprenticing with Jean-François Méteigner of L'Orangerie in Los Angeles. This ambitious young chef spent his scant spare time working for free at Spago. There, he caught the attention of Wolfgang Puck, who signed him to a two-year paying gig. Ten months at San Domenico in Imola followed. Back in the States, he was opening sous-chef at Postrio, then executive chef at 44 at the Royalton in New York. He was chef at Granita in Malibu when he decided the time had come to launch his own venture. Two years ago, Manzare and his life-and-work partner, Mary Klingbeil (they met at Postrio), opened Globe, where Manzare fashions soul-satisfying food out of the incomparable bounty of the Bay Area. His talents have earned him a pocketful of star-studded reviews. Patricia Unterman of the San Francisco Examiner loved the "velvety and delicate" smoked salmon, the "fabulous" pizzas, the "perfectly cooked" T-bone. Bauer was partial to those "remarkable" pork chops, and critic Stephanie Rosenbaum was wowed by the "wonderful, velvety moist" rotisserie chicken, and the baked mussels, scallops, and shrimp that, she advised, you "miss at your peril." As Bauer's headline declared, "Globe is out of this world."
Assorted Hors d'Oeuvre
Summer Tomato and Bread Salad with Balsamic and Feta Cheese
Baked Salmon on Fava Purée with Grilled Red Onion, Chick Egg, and Anchovy
Lamb T-Bone on Cannellini Beans with Niçoise Olives and Mission Figs
Warm Pear Tart with Peach Ice Cream