There is a brave new world of haute Mexican cuisine waiting to be discovered. Gloria Duarte is helping teach Americans about authentic Mexican cuisine. As chef and owner of Las Bellas Artes in Elmhurst, Illinois, she has created a menu as intriguing as it is irresistible. Offerings include duck confit quesadilla with tomato-guava sauce, grilled chorizo-cured pork loin and chileajo with a black raspberry sauce, and, for dessert, caramel flan with gold dust and a cup of espresso.

Duarte's education began while she was living in Mexico with her husband, who is Mexican. It was, in fact, her mother-in-law who introduced her to the classical Mexican cuisine of Mexico City. Gloria furthered her education at Dumas Père Culinary School in Glenview, Illinois, and went on to apprentice at Chicago's Ritz-Carlton and the Drake Hotel. She opened Las Bellas Artes in 1987. Named after Mexico City's El Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts), the restaurant does double duty-not only is it a showcase of fine Mexican food, it is also an artistic venue in which the couple's treasure trove of antiques, as well as the exquisite art collection of Gloria husband, José, are on display.

Duarte returns to the Beard House this month for her second visit, to prepare a traditional Mexican wedding feast. There is an expression in Mexico, a la casa por la ventana, which means "pulling out all the stops," and foodwise, that's what a Mexican wedding's all about. Although you've probably already tried Mexican wedding cakes (pastelitas de boda)-those ground nut-based, meltingly short cookies that are often served at weddings in Mexico-and seen Like Water for Chocolate, a Mexican wedding is a feast for all the senses. In Mexico the custom is to come late for a wedding, but you won't want to miss a second of this fiesta.