One of the last vestiges of the ancient Persian empire is the observance of No Ruz, a New Year's celebration that coincides with the spring equinox. No Ruz has been celebrated for at least 3,000 years. The 3,000-year-old, 13-day fête is a celebration of life and renewal, and it is marked by symbolic foods, bountiful feasts, the exchanging of gifts, and visits with family and friends. And since we like to get in on every act that offers a great spread, Persian New Year comes to the Beard House this year courtesy of Mehrdad Dabir, the Iranian-born chef of San Francisco's renowned Metropolitan Club.

Dabir emigrated to the United States in 1973. He studied marketing at California State University, and then attended the Gemological Institute of America. Before Dabir embarked on a culinary career, he dabbled in diamonds. Eventually, the precious stones lost their luster, and Dabir signed on with the California Culinary Academy. After graduation, he made the rounds of some of Northern California's most celebrated restaurants, including the Beard award-winning kitchens of Joyce Goldstein at Square One and Paul Bertolli at Oliveto. He also worked the lines at Moose's in San Francisco and at the Wente Vineyard kitchen. These days he spends his time at the Metropolitan Club, an oasis of well-being that has been pampering women and their guests since 1915.

For our No Ruz celebration, Dabir will be cooking the traditional holiday dishes of his homeland. A ceremonial table called sofreh-e haft sinn (cloth of seven dishes) is set, and seven dishes, each beginning with the Persian letter sinn, or S, are prepared to usher in the New Year. Each dish represents one of the seven angelic heralds of life: rebirth, health, happiness, prosperity, joy, patience, and beauty. Sal-e no Mobarak! Happy New Year!