Way back in 1971-203 years ago in dog years-Robert Douglas, a Martha's Vineyard native and sea captain, decided to open a cozy year-round tavern named after his favorite canine and best friend, Black Dog. Like his pet, the restaurant was intended to be a friendly, unpretentious place where both summer visitors and locals could enjoy good food in good company. Today, we've all come to recognize this particular black dog, whose image adorns the backs of T-shirt-clad college students everywhere. (Or perhaps you know the pooch because a certain infamous chief executive, who shall remain nameless, once presented a certain notorious Other Woman with a Black Dog T-shirt as a token of his lust.) In any case, in the little town of Vineyard Haven, this particular dog has become the emblem of a life of ease, and, more to the point for Beardies, he has also come to stand for the best of the Vineyard's casually elegant summertime eating.

The Black Dog-which has evolved to include several bakeries, a general store, and a thriving catalog business-is still rooted in that congenial tavern. Today, chef Douglas Hewson offers informal island fare like quahog chowder, fresh steamers, and oyster stew, alongside sophisticated dishes such as roasted duck breast with sesame vinaigrette, or ginger-soy marinated island bonito. Hewson first worked at Black Dog early in his career, just a pup fresh out of cooking school. Eventually, he left to make a name for himself in Boston. There, he ran the celebrated kitchen at Grill 23 and Bar and helped revive the eminent Union Oyster House. But in 1998, Hewson returned to his haven on the Vineyard, where, doglike, loyal customers wait patiently for seats at a restaurant that takes no reservations, because they know they're in for a real treat, and we don't mean Milk Bones.

Sadly, the restaurant's namesake has long since gone to canine Kingdom Come. He's no longer playing dead; he is dead. Don't worry, though, Black Dog is probably eating T-bone steak whenever he wants in heaven and playing a never-ending game of fetch. As for our idea of heaven-we suggest you sign up for Hewson's meal at the Beard House. We do take reservations, after all, and Hewson will be making a dinner sure to leave you wagging your tail and begging for more. If this is a dog's life, throw us a bone.