"Wine nourishes, refreshes, cheers," the Talmud proclaims. Wherever wine is lacking, medicines become necessary." Rest assured, we won't need any doctors on hand when Bernard Laskowski of Bin 36 in Chicago comes to the Beard House to prepare dinner accompanied by selections from his excellent wine cellar.

These days, when wine lists are thick volumes with hundreds of choices, choosing what to drink can be very intimidating. When Dan Sachs, owner of the acclaimed Spruce in Chicago, first envisioned Bin 36-a retail store and restaurant-he pictured "a wine-themed children's museum for adults," where guests would learn about wine in a hands-on, friendly way, in part by sampling excellent vintages from around the world. In the shop there are maps of wine regions on the walls; bowls of Chardonnay, Merlot, and other wine grapes available for tasting; and a knowledgeable staff able to counsel patrons with useful wine tips, such as the proper way to decant a vintage bottle. In the restaurant, guests get down to some serious tasting, complemented by Laskowski's seriously delicious American bistro cooking.

Laskowski, a Chicago native, learned to cook from his grandmother, and picked up a few winemaking tips from his grandfather, an avid home vintner. After high school and a stint in the Marines, Laskowski returned to Chicago and took an entry-level job at Le Ciel Blue, where he was first exposed to classical French techniques. His training continued at Everest under the tutelage of Jean Joho, who encouraged him to learn as much as possible. Joho required that his protégé read a cookbook each night, and answer questions about it the following day. With a strong sense of discipline and technique under his belt, Laskowski left Chicago to travel in France and Italy to learn more about cuisine and artisanal food production. Returning home, he worked with Michael Kornick at Marché and Red Light, and with Mark Baker at The Four Seasons Chicago, where he helped the earn the restaurant its fourth star from Chicago magazine.

At Bin 36 Laskowski is making a name for himself, creating earthy, wine-friendly dishes like smoked celery root cannelloni with roasted red pepper essence, and chili-spiced braised veal shanks. Join us this month at the Beard House when Laskowski is in town; we promise you'll be nourished, refreshed, and cheered, and none of your medicines will be necessary.