Max & Moritz is named after a couple of puerile characters from a German book that chef

Paul Goebert loved as a child, but this bistro is anything but. Set in Brooklyn's trendy Park Slope neighborhood, the three-year-old eatery, a favorite of New York Times critic Eric Asimov, cultivates a very grown-up clientele. With his sophisticated yet homey French-American fare, Goebert is giving Manhattan a run for its money.

Goebert grew up in Vienna. As a young man, he traveled through southern Europe, northern Africa, and Kashmir, gaining exposure to exotic ingredients and preparations. He eventually settled in New York and took a dishwashing job to support his photography habit, but the kitchen proved intriguing. Goebert then spent time in New Orleans, where cooking developed into a passion. Back in New York, he grew interested in pastry making. He trained in sweets at La Gauloise, became executive pastry chef of the UN Plaza Park Hyatt Hotel, and opened his own wholesale dessert catering company, which quickly attracted a stellar clientele. But the savory side of things once again beckoned, and Goebert heeded its call. He accepted a job as sous-chef at Jean Laffite Restaurant and Grove. Next, he ran the kitchens at Jules Bistro and Les Trois Canards.

Now that he has his own place, Goebert is like a kid with a new toy, and neighbors are happy to let him play. Asimov praised Goebert's "subtle and delicious dishes." Writing for www.citysearch.com, Adam Rapoport liked Goebert's "hearty but refined food." And two years ago, Time Out anointed it Best French Bistro, calling the stylish, intimate spot "the pride of Park Slope."