For years, it's been called the melting pot; in the recent past it's been referred to as a colorful mosaic. Whichever metaphor you choose, one thing is clear-when cultures collide in America, the foodie always comes out on top. Take New American cuisine. What exactly is it? Mostly, it depends on just who's cooking, and what they're bringing to the pot. When Neath (pronounced "knee-it") Pal is at the stove, it's regional American headliners, like littlenecks and lobsters, finished with the exotic flavors of the Far East. His is no foolish fusion. And New Yorkers are taking notice. Writing for The New York Times, Bryan Miller raved about the duck confit paired with star anise and a "wonderfully mellow" sweet potato gratin with port and fresh ginger reduction. And now that the readers of Rhode Island Monthly have named Neath's New American Bistro the state's best new restaurant, it means just one thing: whatever Pal has got simmering on the stove, the folks in Providence have got their spoons and forks at the ready.

Pal, who was born and raised in Cambodia, left his home when he was 13 and came to live in Providence with former state senator and gubernatorial candidate Myrth York and her husband, David Green. Pal earned a degree in zoology, but soon realized that he really wanted to be a chef. He packed his bags and headed for Paris, working in a number of the city's most notable restaurants, including A Sousceyrac. Upon his return, Pal signed on with Provincetown's most famous restaurant, Al Forno. From there it was on to L'Epicureo, and then to Grappa. He opened Neath's to thunderous applause. Bill Rodriguez of The Providence Phoenix called the fare at Neath's "elegant, exotic, and exquisitely prepared." Daniel Asa Rose of Rhode Island Monthly was bowled over by the roasted squash soup, "built with vegetable stock and Fuji apples, one of those soups that reveals deeper reservoirs of taste with each sip."

Pal, for one, can't fathom the response. "Anyone can do it," he says modestly. Anyone who? When you get to the House on the 18th, you might want to ask him about this "anyone" character. Maybe we can get him to do a dinner sometime soon.