New Orleans

• Swan song. The Sazerac Room in the Fairmont Hotel, once a bastion of elegant dining in New Orleans, has closed. The red velvet swags and carved ice swans will be sorely missed by city diners.

• Historic Delmonico's Restaurant has reopened following months of renovations. First opened in 1895, and named after the New York original, the restaurant was purchased in 1997 by Emeril Lagasse from Angie Brown and Rose Dietrich of the Commander family. Chef Dwight Sherman, a veteran of Arnaud's, Koib's Restaurant, and Emeril's, has designed a menu showcasing classic Creole cuisine.

• At The Pelican Club, Richard Hughes, Jr., and Singapore native Chin Ling are creating fusion dishes that combine East and West in interesting ways. The shrimp and crawfish cakes served with ginger-carrot dressing and tropical salsa, and seared yellowfin tuna with roasted red pepper wasabi sauce are particularly noteworthy.

• Kabby's in the Hilton has a new look and a new menu that, under chef David Woodward, emphasizes local seafood.